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Alexander Klenov


Was born on August, 8th in Kazakhstan

In 1980-1985 education in the Ural Polytechnical Institute


Sport tourism

From 1981 till 1985 was a head of faculty Mount tourist club



Since 1984 is a  member of Sverdlovsk area on rock-climbing team.

Till now keep  8B level in free climbing


The trainer

In 1984 has left school of  rock-climbing coaches.

More than 10 years worked as the rock-climbing highest category trainer in the Ekaterinburgs Olympic reserve mountain school

In 2008-2009 head coach trainer of the national  rock-climbing team in Kazakhstan



Has started mountaineering in 1986 in SKA 17 (Ural military sport club).

Became the master of mountaineering sport  in 1991

The international master of sport  since November 1995.

The deserved master of sports since 2003


Participation in the championships of the USSR

      1 place - 2 times

      2 place - 1 time


Participation in  Russian championships

       1 place - 6 times

       2 place - 4 times

       3 place - 2 times

The many time champion and the prize-winner of Army championships .

Twice was the nominee of the international award "Gold ice axe".

The owner of the Russian award «Gold edelweiss» for the best ascension of year

Has many ascens of the highest difficulty category, including new routes.

Several years  is number one in Russian national team of a technical class and in the rating of the best  Russian  climbers.


Route setter

International route setter since 1995

Worked as  route setter on:

         World Cup in Moscow, 1995,

          The youth World championship in Moscow,

          World Cup in Ekaterinburg, 1996.

           The youth championship of Asia (Almaty), 2009


Chief forrunner:

  Youth climbing Cup of Europe in Apatity, 2000,

  Youth climbing Cup of Europe in Bulgaria, 2002.

  The youth World championship in Bulgaria 2003

  The youth European championship in Kaliningrad 2009


Was a lider of russian national route setters school

Was a lider of international route setters seminars on a natural rocks in Russia, Macedonia, Kazakhstan,  bolting a lot of  sports routes in different areas in the world.


Public work

Since 2004 is the representative of Russia and Kazakhstan in UIAA Youth Commission

Since 2004 is initiator and the head of the program «Rocks For Everybody» and the international rock festivals “On-sight Marathon”

Since 2012 living in Macedonia. The leader of the sports club "Klisura". One of the active organizers of International Outdoor Festivals  in Demir Kapija. The main route-setter in area.


Best ascents

  • 2013: Roraima wall (Venezuella)

  • 2007: first ascent on unclimbing wall Shingu Charpa (Pakistan)

  • 2005: free climbing ascents on the Angels waterfall wall (Venezuela)

  • 2002: new route on the wall of Grate Sail Peak (Canada, Buffin Island)

  • 2001: winter ascent difficulties’ route in Spain  on the peak Naranho De Bulnes

  • Summer 2001:  attempt of ascent to west wall of Latok-III. The expedition has been interrupted because of destruction one of the participant near  the top.

  • Summer 2000: New route up to Spantik peak. Participant of International "Golden Peak-2000" expedition

  • February 2000: new route in party with Alexander Klenov up to Petit Dru - "Dream of summer".

  • May 1999: New route on the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6905 m)

  • February 1999: new route on Grand Capucin in party - "Russian winter".

  • 1998: Petit Dru, N.Face, in party; Grand Jorass, N. variant, 6A in party.

  • 1997: Aksu, first climb on N.Face 6B, not repeated.

  • 1996: Aksu, first climb on the diretissima of the N.Face pillar 6A (?!!!), not repeated.

  • 1995: Petit Dru, NW Face, American diretissima in party.

  • 1994: Two 5B on "3850", two 5B on Asan, 6B on Slesova and 6B on "4810" for 15 days.

  • 1993: Slesova, first climb on NW Face 6B, not repeated; "4810" first climb on E Face. 6B.

  • 1992: first climb on peak "Steep Wall" in Archa-Kanysh, 5B; Sauk-Dzayliau E. 6A; Sauk-Dzayliau C., first ascent, 6A, not repeated.

  • 1991: Asan, 6B; Slesova, 6B; Block, 6A; Admiralteets, 6A.

  • 1990: Asan, 6A in party; Asan, 6B in party; "4810", 6B.

  • 1989: Kyzylbash, 6A in party; Asan, 6A in party; peak 26 Bakinskikh kommisarov (6834 m) on S. Face, 6B.

   1988: First climb on peak Block E, 5B; peak


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